The great Laurie Colwin once wrote, "One of the delights of life is eating with friends; second to that is talking about eating. And, for an unsurpassed double whammy, there is talking about eating while you are eating with friends." I couldn't agree more, but I have to add my own particular pleasure, which is reading about eating.
When I say this, I don't mean cookbooks, although heaven knows I have plenty of those. As I mentioned earlier, I collect community and Junior League cookbooks, and let me tell you, there is no better place to find delicious dips and a slew of cheese balls than in the community cookbooks of the deep south. "Health" has no place in a cookbook devised for a church fund-raiser. What I'm talking about is eating in fiction. Fictional eating, if you will, although it's definitely real enough to the characters in question.
One of the first food passages I remember loving is from Betty Smith's A Tree Grows in Brooklyn. It sounded so good that it made living in a tenement sound like fun. It wasn't until much later that I realized that it was essentially a starvation diet with little nutritional value, but the meals still sound good to me. Here's some of it.
The Nolans practically lived on that stale bread, and what amazing things Katie could make from it! She'd take a loaf of stale bread, pour boiling water over it, work it up into a paste, flavor it with salt, pepper, thyme, minced onion and an egg (if eggs were cheap), and bake it in the oven. When it was good and brown, she made a sauce from half a cup of ketchup, two cups of boiling water, seasoning, a dash of strong coffee, thickened it with flour and poured it over the baked stuff. It was good, hot, tasty and staying. What was left over, was sliced thin the next day and fried in hot bacon fat.
Saturday supper was a red letter meal. The Nolans had fried meat! A loaf of stale bread was made into pulp with hot water and mixed with a dime's worth of chopped meat into which an onion had been cleavered. Salt and a penny's worth of minced parsley were added for flavor. This was made up into little balls, fried and served with hot ketchup. These balls had a name, fricadellen, which was a great joke with Francie and Neeley.
They lived mostly on these things made from stale bread, and condensed milk and coffee, onions, potatoes, and always the penny's worth of something bought at the last minute, added for fillip.
Descriptions of grand meals have never really interested me. I'm not a grand meals kind of girl. I like descriptions of traditional Southern cuisine and fine regional cooking. Laura Ingalls Wilder's description of the food storage techniques in Little House in the Big Woods was an early favorite that I've cherished for years. It's not just the classics, either. John Grisham's The Last Juror describes a meal of vegetables out of a Southern garden that is as authentic as anything Edna Lewis ever made. Rosamunde Pilcher's Coming Home describes several weekend lunches at a manor house in Cornwall that make my mouth water. And the mere mention of cooking "a macaroni cheese" as happens in more than one of her books usually prompts that exact dinner later in the week, if not the same day.
For you see, there's a danger to fictional eating. It often inspires actual eating on the part of the reader. (Or this reader, at least.) I'm highly open to suggestion, and all it takes is a mention. There's a passage in Elizabeth Peters' mystery Summer of the Dragon where the main character refrains from taking part in a discussion at a party because she is hoping no one notices that she has eaten all the cheese. It's only supermarket cheddar, but, as she says, "I really do love cheese." So do I. When I read the book as a teenager, and every time since, the party scene has sent me scurrying for the fridge and the supermarket monterrey jack.
All I have to do is think about the scene in Maeve Binchy's Circle of Friends where Eve brings in a plate "heaped with bacon and floury potatoes in a white sauce" and I've got the bacon in the microwave and am thinking very hard about scalloped potatoes.
I've got near total recall on my favorite scenes of fictional eating. Sometimes, a snack or a meal will cause me to get out the book in question so that I can enjoy the passage while I partake of the food I'm enjoying. Recently, I found the best sour pickles in the world at our local farmers market. I got home and immediately curled up with Betty Smith again for a little repast with Francie and her pickle.
There were times though, especially towards the end of a long cold dark winter, when, no matter how hungry Francie was, nothing tasted good. That was big pickle time. She'd take a penny and go down to a store on Moore Street that had nothing in it but fat Jew pickles floating around in a heavy spiced brine. ... Eventually a fine fat pickle, greenish yellow and hard at the ends was fished out and laid on a scrap of brown paper. ... The pickle lasted all day. Francie sucked and nibbled on it. She didn't exactly eat it. She just HAD it. When they had just bread and potatoes too many times at home, Francie's thoughts went to dripping sour pickles. She didn't know why, but after a day of the pickle, bread and potatoes tasted god again. Yes, pickle day was something to look forward to.
Now, if you'll excuse me, I have to help my husband prepare lunch. We're having scalloped potatoes. And later, for a snack, there will probably be some bacon or some pickles, or both. I'm not pregnant. I've just been reading.