My food journey is a mix of idealism, stewardship, and social needs. Admittedly, the food I choose often has nothing to do with anything but convenience or a whim – e.g. my love-hate affair with McDonalds. Matching actions with beliefs presents a challenge, particularly when the beliefs are complex or even conflicting. Food can be political, emotional, and nurturing, and the history of my food ideals comes from a variety of sources. The poet Wendy Cope is a woman after my own heart, and her poem from Making Cocoa for Kingsly Amis expresses my views so well:
Kindness to Animals
Poem commissioned for an anthology for the benefit of the World Wide Fund for Nature but rejected as unsuitable
If I went vegetarian
And didn't eat lambs for dinner,
I think I'd be a better person
And also thinner.
But the lamb is not endangered
And at least I can truthfully say
I have never, ever eaten a barn owl,
So perhaps I'm OK.
I first read the introduction to Laurel’s Kitchen: A Handbook for Vegetarian Nutrition and Cookery when I was twelve; that was the first time I’d encountered any writing about intentional living. Carol Flinder’s described learning to cook from her friend and their quest to develop healthy diets that reflected their political and spiritual beliefs. The sense of community and purpose were important. Groups of people who would trade soy spread and bean sprouts for bread, or a person who would deliver freshly baked loaves of bread to new-comers spoke of goodwill and connectedness.
Intentional living was something I had experienced before. When I was young, my parents were vegetarians for several years. They were experiencing something similar to what was described in the Laurel’s Kitchen cookbook. They explored meditation, yoga, and visited areas where people lived as a community. Growing up in a Bible belt town, it is hard to explain to friends what you believe. They want to know whether you are Catholic or Methodist or Baptist. People who don’t eat meat, bake their own bread, and sit cross-legged in the evening are damned-near incomprehensible.
I was a child, the whole family would climb in our Volkswagon bug and drive out to visit Grandmother on the farm. When we visited my grandmother, we all ate meat--even Mom and Dad. Typically, my sister and I would get sandwiched between two uncles or an uncle and Grandmother. While they ate, they would say, “Mmmmm. Roast beef. Roast beef is verrrry gooood.” Everyone would agree that meat was delicious. I don’t remember ever seeing a response from my parents. Looking back, I realize that my grandparents were cattle ranchers. Mom and Dad’s choice of food threatened everything they did. The brainwashing did work. To this day, every time I eat roast beef, I have to bite my tongue to refrain from saying how good it is.
Animal, Vegetable, Miracle by Barbara Kingsolver and The Omnivore’s Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals by Michael Pollan are books that have changed the way I think about food. They talk about the food chain, eating foods in season, and being able to locate the source of your food. The term locavore entered my vocabulary. My ideas about eating mindfully and intentionally changed too. While no one in my family has been a vegetarian in the last ten years, but I harbor a certain amount of guilt for eating meat. I feel even worse that I enjoy it so much. Thinking in terms of food chains and the diminishing variety of what is in our food chain, I reviewed my thoughts on meat. The Slow Food motto, “You have to eat it to save it” shocked me at first, but it makes sense. So does Ted Turner’s work to save buffalo by making them a viable commodity.
Sometimes food doesn't have a relationship to politics at all. The times spent around Grandmother’s dining room table with the enormous, extended family were very happy. The parents tried to keep kids in their chairs and we romped away and took up raucous games. The food was delicious and familiar. People were relaxed and laughing. That comfort and joy was all mixed in with the food and the people and the setting.
A friend took me to Faye Farms in Udall, KS this weekend. It is approximately 25 miles from home but we were lured there by the temptation of free-range, free-roaming hens and their eggs. Hours before I got the invitation, I read a chapter of The Omnivore’s Dilemma that discussed how the protein quality and the color of the egg yolk of hens that have grass available varies from a hen that does not have the grass. Keeping me away from that farm would have been very difficult. Indeed, the quality of the eggs was good. The large eggs had double yolks, and the smaller eggs had single yolks. The eggs were very fresh, and Mrs. Faye told us they had been gathered earlier that morning. It took me right back to my childhood and playing tag with my cousins.
By the way, the Faye Farm doesn’t have the scary roosters I remember from my childhood. They have friendly chickens, and I’ve included a few pictures.
Since today is my mother’s birthday, I baked a sponge cake that her family has made for birthdays since my great-grandmother’s time. The cake is very simple and not too sweet. The frosting is whipped cream. A friend said it tasted like sweet air. To me, it tastes like home and birthdays. Mom agreed too, but she wondered why my cake was yellow. They’ve always been white before. Maybe it was the special eggs?